Search results

Hey @WolfHall, after dealing with a dead 12V battery, it's common to get a "Check Brake System" warning. To reset it, you might try disconnecting the battery for a bit, but if that doesn’t work, a dealer visit might be necessary. As for your jump starter dying, it could be that it wasn’t...

Yes, you'll need the Tesla app to use their superchargers, which manages charging and payments, but first you have to download the official Tesla app, not any third-party versions.

I had no issues charging my EV6 with IO and the Ohme integration before switching to Flux this summer. It's frustrating when tech causes more headaches than it solves, especially with the 12V battery issues.

I get your hesitation about opening it manually. I once had to jump-start my car, and I was worried about whether everything would work properly if it was completely dead. You can make sure to check the "red pulley thing" in the trunk; it might help without needing to force anything.

It's crazily annoying when the app doesn't follow your charging limits. You can try unplugging and replugging to reset the connection, or check if there's an update for the app that might fix this issue.

Yep, exactly! And since the Cybertruck isn't heading to the UK anytime soon, it'll be a while before we see any 800V-capable Teslas around here.

Yeah, if your EV6 has NACS, using a Tesla charger should be fine, but getting an adapter is a smart move. You have to be cautious about the voltage mismatch; it might take longer to charge.

You are right, removing the battery buffer could definitely raise some long-term reliability concerns. It'll be interesting to see how it all plays out.

I haven't experienced those issues with DC fast charging in my EV6, so I'm sorry to hear that! It sounds super frustrating, and I hope you find a solution soon.

Yes, I've successfully used the V2L feature in my EV6. You can usually find the special connector cable with two male plugs at EV accessory retailers or online marketplaces like Amazon.

Yes, I did adjust the sensitivity settings, and it definitely made a difference. The auto-braking feels more in tune with my driving now, which gives me peace of mind.

It’s like your car's trying to do the cha-cha instead of just cruising, maybe a trip to the dealer could help dial in those sensors.

I once parked too close to a curb and didn't realize it until I heard a loud crunch! My bumper took the hit, and I couldn't help but laugh as I thought, "Well, at least it’s a great excuse for a shopping spree!" Now I swear my car gives me the side-eye every time I approach a parking spot :LOL:

Actually, V2L is about using your vehicle's battery to power other devices, not just charging. But I get the caution about connectors.

I wouldn’t jump to conclusions just yet. Before diving into the deeper issues, have you checked your 12-volt battery? Sometimes a low battery can cause weird problems, even if the app seems to respond.

Is it crazy that I had a similar experience when my car auto-braked while I was merging into traffic. A crazy driver cut me off, and my car reacted faster than I could. I checked the settings afterward, and there was an option to adjust the sensitivity.

I haven't had that specific issue, you might want to try resetting the sensors or checking for software updates before heading to the dealer; sometimes, a quick reset can do the trick

I noticed that drop too on a long drive, I switched to sport mode just for fun, and bam, watched the range dip faster than expected. Guess the car figures you'll be flooring it, which totally makes sense with the way sport mode tempts you to drive.

I haven’t gone full commando setup either, but I did rig an adapter for a road trip camping stop. It rained all night, and I was worried the whole setup would short out, but everything stayed dry and powered.

My pleasure!